Clos LaChance regularly submits its wines to the press for review. Wine Spectator, Robert Parker, Wine Enthusiast, Wine & Spirits, Wine News, Connoisseur’s Guide to CA Wine, to name a few. Plus a number of daily and online publications and blogs…the list is pretty long. We do about 4 or 5 shipments of new releases to 40+ reviewers per year.
Critics have very different tastes. More often then not, we will get very high scores from one publication and mediocre scores from another. For example, our Special Selection Meritage). In Wine Enthusiast it got a 92. In Connoisseur’s Guide, only an 87.
Wine Enthusiast, March 2008): Clos LaChance 2004 Meritage (Central Coast) - Juicy and ripe, this Bordeaux blend is an elegant young wine with earthy flavors of blackberries, cherries, and new smoky oak; Notable for its exceptional balance, it should hold well through 2012. 92 Points
The Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine (December 2007): There is a real kinship to be found between this blend and the winery’s Estate Cabernet in that both are built along smooth and supple lines, and both are easy-to-access offerings. While one finds plenty of ripe cherries, oak and brushy spice at work here, things get a touch of dry and drift off to chocolate at the finish, and the wine argues for but mid-term keeping. Rating: 87 Points, One puff
But then you go to our Estate Syrah. Connoisseur’s Guide gives it 91, and Wine Spectator scored us at only an 86. An 86 is certainly not a bad score (and the write up is quite nice). But in a lot of retail wine buyer minds (scores are most important when trying to sell wine into retail accounts), anything below a 90 is not saleable, unless you already have a well-established brand.
Connoisseur’s Guide to CA Wine (March 2008): 2005 Clos LaChance Syrah, Central Coast - Intense themes of plums and blackberries are given a big lift in sweetness by the creamy oak that appears through the length of this very deep and well-crafted opus, and, if never a Syrah of extravagant spice, it is still wonderfully juicy and rich. Full on the palate and still impeccably balanced, it shows uncommon polish for the big wine that it is, and its fine-grained finishing tannins are overlain by layers of lingering fruit. Although so mannerly as to tempt early drinking, it has the depth and reserve to grow for five or more years. 91 Points, Two Puffs.
Wine Spectator Review (March 31, 2008): Clos LaChance Syrah Central Coast 2005 ($35): Rustic, yet appealing. Plum and forest floor aromas and firm black cherry, anise, and cracked pepper flavors finish with firm, cedary tannins. Best from 2009 through 2012. 510 cases. 86 Points.
How best to deal with these conflicting scores?
From a marketer’s point of view, I scream and holler about the high scores….but I don’t mention the lower scores (although I do post them on the Reviews section of our web site, as I like our customers to see all opinions in one place). The high scores, we will make shelf talkers (those annoying pieces of paper you will see under a bottle of wine at a retail store—and half the time the shelf talker doesn’t match with the vintage/and or varietal…but that’s another topic), sell sheets (just an 8 ½ X 11 sheet that has a bottle shot, logos and a GIANT quote from the respective high-scoring publication, hand them out to everyone in the field), email newsletters and tasting room displays.
From a wine consumers point of view—find a reviewer that has similar likes and dislikes as you…(do you like pears? James Laube at the Spectator likes them, cause he scores wines that have pear characteristics higher then those that don’t) and then follow their recommendations. There are a ton of wine critics out there—and growing everyday with all the bloggers out there.
A lot of people in the industry have very strong opinions about the 100 point wine scoring system. I don’t mind it, especially when I think of other industries that have much more severe rating systems. I will use the film industry as an example here. One of the most well-known movie rating systems is very simple: “thumbs up” or “thumbs down.” At least the 100-points system has a little something in between the two extremes.
Others are disgruntled about the 100-points scoring system because it can be so black and white. While it is nice to have beautifully written descriptions of a wine’s aromas, palate and finish. And those that have time can read them and research a wine pre-purchase to their hearts content. But more often then not, who the hell has the time for that? I got two kids, a husband, a dog, and a full-time job. Just give me something quick to look at that says the wine is good, per so-and-so, and I will take it.
The closest thing to the “thumbs down” in the wine industry is Connoisseur’s Guide. They have a symbol in their publication…an upside down glass, which means “stay far, far away from this wine.” Thankfully, we have only received that once. But that was over a decade ago when we had a “rental” winery, a different winemaker and purchased Central Coast green-beany Merlot grapes. We hope to never receive one of those again! Although if we do, you will never hear about it, because we won’t tell you.
